Dented, split and rattled cans are mostly a packing problem. Put things in a smart order, stop the load from shifting, and your cans will arrive in shape.
A can is strong when pushed straight along its length and surprisingly weak when hit on its side or pinched at the seam. In a cooler, the culprits are heavy items settling on top of cans, cans hammering each other or the walls during travel, and sharp-cornered containers pressing into thin metal.
A can that is only dented can still be fine. A can with a split seam or a leak is a different story, since it can contaminate food and make a sticky mess. Prevention is easy compared with cleanup.
Temperature plays a part as well. A can of carbonated drink that gets warm builds internal pressure, and a can that freezes expands. Neither extreme is good for a seam that has already been dented. Keeping cans cold but not frozen, and not slammed around, gives the metal its best chance.
Heavy loads on a can's rim are a quiet cause too. Stacking a second layer of cans on top of the first can pinch the rims together, particularly in a soft cooler or a pack that bends. If you stack, put something flat and firm between layers.
Heavy items go on the bottom and sides, and lighter items go on top. Frozen jugs, large containers and bulky food work as a base. Cans go in the middle layer, upright if possible, with nothing heavy placed on them.
Put the cans where the ice can reach them and where you can get at them without moving the heavy layers. The packing guide shows the full order and how ice fits in.
A good layout also reduces how often the cooler gets rearranged. If you know where each type of item lives, you pull a can without disturbing the stack. That alone prevents a lot of accidental crushing, since most dents happen when somebody digs through the pile in a hurry.
The cooler itself plays a part. A flexible soft cooler squeezes cans when it is packed tight or stacked, while a hard cooler holds its shape. If you use a soft cooler, give the cans a firm layer of their own and avoid putting heavy items on top.
Pick food containers that are flat on the bottom and soft at the corners. A square tub of potato salad pressed into a can will win every time. Use containers that stack cleanly so the weight sits on other containers, not on cans.
Movement is what hurts. Fill empty space with ice, frozen bottles, towels or soft items so cans cannot slide. A full cooler protects its contents far better than a roomy one. Place cans in snug rows and pack ice between and around them.
Avoid mixing cans with hard or sharp items in a loose pile. A can pressed against a bottle cap or a hard container edge is more likely to dent or split. Keep those items on a different level or in a separate section.
On rough roads, add a firm layer on top of the cans before you close the lid, such as a folded towel or a flat container. It keeps the lid from pressing down and stops cans from hopping around when the vehicle bounces.
Separating cans from everything else is the cleanest solution. A divider creates a zone for drinks so food cannot lean on them, and a rack gives each can its own position. Both ideas are the basis of Beer Safety's product lines: cooler can organizers and dividers and dry baskets.
Until they are ready, a homemade version can work. Cardboard dividers, foam blocks with holes, or a small hard-sided container for cans can create zones. Just make sure anything you add does not soak up water and fall apart, and does not block ice from reaching the cans.
The ideal rack holds cans snugly but not so tightly that you have to fight to pull one out. It lets cold water move through, drains easily, and can be lifted out so the cooler is easy to clean afterward.
Whatever form the rack takes, it should be easy to clean and not trap water. A design that holds a puddle under every can will smell in a week, so look for open bottoms or removable parts. That is the standard we are building toward.
Look over the cans when you pack. Skip any that are already dented on the rim or seam, since weak spots fail first. After the trip, inspect them again, especially if the cooler took a hard ride. A bulging can, a hissing can or a sticky film on the outside are signs to set that can aside.
If a can has leaked in the cooler, empty and clean the cooler thoroughly. Sugary liquid spoils fast and leaves odors, and the cooler cleaning guide explains how to take care of it.
A cooler that slides can crush what is inside it by hitting something else. Secure the cooler in the vehicle with rated straps, as described in our guide to securing a cooler in a truck bed or off-road. A stable cooler means a calmer load inside.
Carry the cooler level, avoid dropping it, and do not stack heavy gear on top of it unless the lid is rated for the weight.
Frozen liquid expands, and a can touching dry ice can bulge or burst. If you use dry ice, wrap it, separate it from the cans, and follow the safety rules in our ice comparison. For a drinks cooler, regular ice is the safer choice.
Upright cans are stable, easy to grip and less likely to roll. Lay them down only if you can pack them snugly so they cannot shift.
Fill empty space with ice, frozen bottles or towels, and pack the cooler close to full. A divider or rack gives cans fixed positions.
A minor dent in the body is often fine, but a dent on the seam or a leak is a reason to discard it. If in doubt, throw it out.
It should not, as long as it leaves room for ice and water to reach the cans. Ours are being designed with that in mind.
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